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<\/figure><\/div>Taneli Yumu\u015fak Peynirler<\/u><\/strong><\/p> Anadolu topraklar\u0131n\u0131n neredeyse her k\u00f6\u015fesinde kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z, her zevkin ortak tad\u0131 bu peynir grubu, belki de peynir tarihinin ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131d\u0131r. Bal\u0131kesir Sava\u015ftepe\u2019de, taze k\u00f6y ekme\u011fi ile s\u0131cak s\u0131cak \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fcze konulan mihal\u0131\u00e7 lorunun tad\u0131; Biga\u2019daki Ezine\u2019nin loru; Ayval\u0131k Cunda\u2019da re\u00e7el ve Kozak Yaylas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00e7am f\u0131st\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile servis edilen sepet loru; Antakya\u2019da tatt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z zahterli \u00e7\u00f6kelek; Elaz\u0131\u011f\u2019da domates, sar\u0131 biber ve baharat ile kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131larak servis edilen tulum \u00e7\u00f6keli\u011fi; Adana\u2019da bazlama i\u00e7indeki ke\u00e7i lorunun, kavrulmu\u015f so\u011fan ve biber ile bulu\u015fmas\u0131 damaklar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 \u015fenlendiren en saf lezzetlerdir…<\/p> \u00c7\u00d6KELEK:<\/p> \u0130smi, tad\u0131, dokusu her b\u00f6lgede de\u011fi\u015fse de t\u00fcm zevklere uygun bir lezzet \u015f\u00f6lenidir \u00e7\u00f6kelek peyniri. Maya kullan\u0131lmadan haz\u0131rlanan bir peynirdir.<\/p> Yap\u0131l\u0131\u015f y\u00f6ntemlerindeki benzerlik, b\u00f6lgelerdeki de\u011fi\u015fik adland\u0131r\u0131lmalar\u0131 ve g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fclerinin birbirlerine olan yak\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131, \u00e7\u00f6kelek ve lorun genelde ayn\u0131 san\u0131lmas\u0131na sebep olur. Ancak birbirlerinden iki farkl\u0131 t\u00fcr\u00fc temsil ederler.<\/p> \u00c7\u00f6kelek, genellikle yay\u0131k art\u0131\u011f\u0131 ayran\u0131n \u0131s\u0131t\u0131lmas\u0131yla olu\u015fan ve dibe \u00e7\u00f6ken p\u0131ht\u0131dan elde edilir. Asl\u0131nda bir yo\u011furt \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcd\u00fcr. Yo\u011furt tereya\u011f\u0131 elde edilinceye kadar yay\u0131klan\u0131r. Tereya\u011f\u0131ndan arta kalan su tekrar \u0131s\u0131t\u0131l\u0131r. Olu\u015fan tortular (yo\u011furt par\u00e7alar\u0131) s\u00fczek beziyle al\u0131n\u0131r. Bezin a\u011fz\u0131 s\u0131k\u0131ca k\u0131vr\u0131larak suyun ayr\u0131\u015fmas\u0131 sa\u011flan\u0131r.<\/p> Bat\u0131 Anadolu, Trakya ve Karadeniz\u2019de \u201cek\u015fimik\u201d, Akdeniz ve Do\u011fu Anadolu\u2019da \u201cs\u00fct koptu, akkat\u0131k, kesik, torak, urda, s\u00fct k\u0131rmas\u0131\u201d, Karadeniz\u2019de \u201dkur\u00e7i, minci, ek\u015fimik\u201d Ege B\u00f6lgesi\u2019nde \u201ck\u0131rk tokmak\u201d, Antakya\u2019da \u201cs\u00fcrk\u201d, Do\u011fu Anadolu\u2019da \u201ccac\u0131k, jajik\u201d gibi farkl\u0131 isimlerle an\u0131lsa da, en yayg\u0131n ismi \u201c\u00e7\u00f6kelek\u201dtir. Bu ismini, yap\u0131l\u0131\u015f y\u00f6ntemi olan p\u0131ht\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7\u00f6kt\u00fcr\u00fclmesinden al\u0131r. S\u00fct\u00fcn oda s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda bekletilerek ya da limon s\u0131k\u0131larak ek\u015fitilmesini takiben olu\u015fan tortunun \u00e7\u00f6kmesi en basit yap\u0131l\u0131\u015f y\u00f6ntemidir.<\/p> Yumu\u015fak, tane tane, ya\u011fs\u0131z, genelde tuzsuz \u00e7\u00f6kele\u011fin, taze otlarla zenginle\u015ftirilen, \u00e7\u00f6rekotu kat\u0131lan, tuluma bas\u0131lan t\u00fcrleri de mevcut olup bu t\u00fcrler daha \u00e7ok G\u00fcney ve Do\u011fu Anadolu\u2019da g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcr. Besleyici de\u011feri y\u00fcksek, kalorisinin d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck olmas\u0131 sebebiyle diyet yapanlar\u0131n tercih etti\u011fi bir peynirdir.<\/p> LOR:<\/p> Lor, peynirin yap\u0131m\u0131ndan kalan sudan elde edilen, yumu\u015fak ve s\u00fcr\u00fclebilir dokuda, s\u00fct kremas\u0131 tad\u0131nda nefis bir peynirdir. Ana malzemesi yerel olarak \u201cg\u00f6ksu\u201d, \u201cs\u0131rvatka\u201d da denilen peynir alt\u0131 suyudur.<\/p> S\u00fctte kazeinin yan\u0131 s\u0131ra bulunan ve y\u00fcksek \u0131s\u0131 duyarl\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 olan alb\u00fcmin ve glob\u00fclin proteinleri, mayalama s\u0131ras\u0131nda p\u0131ht\u0131la\u015fmazlar. Peynir alt\u0131 suyunda kalan bu proteinler ancak \u0131s\u0131t\u0131lma sonucu peynir topaklar\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ferek kat\u0131la\u015f\u0131r ve loru olu\u015ftururlar. Is\u0131tma s\u0131ras\u0131nda peynir alt\u0131 suyuna yap\u0131lan s\u00fct ya da yo\u011furt ilavesi lorun daha yo\u011fun ve kaymaks\u0131 olmas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flar.<\/p> Her b\u00f6lgede lezzeti de\u011fi\u015fen lor da \u00e7\u00f6kelek gibi b\u00f6lgelere g\u00f6re farkl\u0131 isimlerle ifade edilir: Antalya\u2019da \u201cnor\u201d, Kars\u2019ta \u201c\u015for\u201d, I\u011fd\u0131r\u2019da \u201c\u015forkere\u201d.<\/p> Mihal\u0131\u00e7, K\u0131rklareli ka\u015far\u0131 ve Ayval\u0131k sepetin peynir alt\u0131 sular\u0131ndan elde edilen lorlar harika lezzetleriyle T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin en iyileri aras\u0131nda ilk akla gelenlerdir.<\/p> \u0130zmir, \u00c7e\u015fme ve Karaburun\u2019da taze lorun ezilip, 30 g\u00fcn boyunca her g\u00fcn yeni lor eklenerek yo\u011frulmas\u0131yla yap\u0131lan \u201ckopanisti\u201d ve Kars\u2019ta tuluma bas\u0131lan lordan olgunla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lan \u201cKars kurtlu\u201d s\u0131ra d\u0131\u015f\u0131 tatlar\u0131yla farkl\u0131 iki lor lezzetidir.<\/p> Y\u00fcksek protein \u00f6zelli\u011fiyle lor olduk\u00e7a de\u011ferli bir peynir t\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fcr. Tuz ya da koruyucu katk\u0131 i\u00e7ermedi\u011finden dayanma s\u00fcresi 2 g\u00fcnle s\u0131n\u0131rl\u0131d\u0131r. Tuzlama, kurutma ve f\u0131r\u0131nlama y\u00f6ntemleriyle uzun s\u00fcre korunabilir.<\/p> Taze Peynirler<\/u><\/strong><\/p> Genellikle \u201ck\u00f6y peyniri\u201d olarak isimlendirilen taze peynirler az i\u015flem g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f peynir t\u00fcr\u00fcne girer ve \u00e7\u00f6kelek, lor gibi T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin her yerinde \u00fcretilir.<\/p> S\u00fct\u00fcn p\u0131ht\u0131la\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131 takiben telemenin iri k\u00fctleler halinde kesilmesi ve s\u00fcz\u00fclmesiyle elde edilirler. Az tuzlu, yumu\u015fak, ya\u011fl\u0131, s\u00fct beyaz\u0131 rengindeki bu peynirler olgunla\u015fma s\u00fcrecinden ge\u00e7medi\u011fi i\u00e7in nem oran\u0131 y\u00fcksek, yumu\u015fak yap\u0131da, s\u00fct kokuludur. Yap\u0131ld\u0131ktan sonra olgunla\u015fma s\u00fcrecine girmedi\u011fi takdirde 1 hafta i\u00e7inde t\u00fcketilmelidir.<\/p> Beyaz Peynir<\/u><\/strong><\/p> \u00dclkemizde en \u00e7ok t\u00fcketilen peynirlerin ba\u015f\u0131nda gelir. Trakya, Marmara, Ege ve Orta Anadolu\u2019da yayg\u0131n olarak \u00fcretilir. Edirne ve Biga Yar\u0131madas\u0131\u2019nda, \u00f6zellikle Ezine\u2019de yap\u0131lanlar\u0131 T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin en de\u011ferlisi kabul edilir.<\/p> Beyaz peynir her t\u00fcr s\u00fctten tam ya\u011fl\u0131, az ya\u011fl\u0131, ya\u011fs\u0131z \u00e7e\u015fitleriyle kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131kar. Baz\u0131 b\u00f6lgelerde inek, ke\u00e7i ve koyun s\u00fct\u00fc kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131 kullan\u0131lsa da ideal olan tam ya\u011fl\u0131 koyun s\u00fct\u00fcyle \u00fcretilmesidir. Koyun s\u00fct\u00fcndeki y\u00fcksek kuru madde miktar\u0131 ve ya\u011f oran\u0131 peynirin orijinal ve geleneksel lezzetinin esas\u0131d\u0131r. \u0130nek s\u00fct\u00fcyle yap\u0131lan beyaz peynirlerin kuru madde oran\u0131 ve besin de\u011feri koyun s\u00fct\u00fcne g\u00f6re daha d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck oldu\u011fundan fiyat\u0131 da ucuzdur. 10 kg koyun s\u00fct\u00fcnden yakla\u015f\u0131k 2,5 kg peynir elde edilirken, ayn\u0131 miktarda inek s\u00fct\u00fcnden yaln\u0131zca 1,5 kg peynir elde edilmektedir.<\/p> Beyaz peyniri saklama bi\u00e7imi olarak salamura y\u00f6ntemi kullan\u0131l\u0131r. Bu y\u00f6ntem peynirin i\u00e7eri\u011fine oldu\u011fu kadar, tat ve aromas\u0131na, sertlik ya da yumu\u015fakl\u0131\u011f\u0131na da etki eder. Peynirin, kaya tuzu veya deniz tuzunun farkl\u0131 oranlarda suyla kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131yla elde edilen salamura suyunda korunmas\u0131, aromas\u0131n\u0131 kaybetmeden uzun s\u00fcre olgunla\u015farak geli\u015fmesini sa\u011flar.<\/p> Beyaz peynir yap\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 Balkanlar\u2019a T\u00fcrklerin ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 iddias\u0131 i\u00e7in Artun \u00dcnsal S\u00fct Uyuyunca isimli kitab\u0131nda Rumen bilim insan\u0131 Miron Bica\u2019n\u0131n bir \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131 referans g\u00f6stererek 1450\u2019lerden sonra Osmanl\u0131 \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun Balkanlar\u2019a egemen olmas\u0131yla bu b\u00f6lgelerde beyaz peynir yap\u0131m\u0131na ba\u015fland\u0131\u011f\u0131 bilgisini aktar\u0131r. Bug\u00fcn beyaz peynir \u00fcretiminin yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 Biga Yar\u0131madas\u0131\u2019nda, Balkanlar\u2019dan gelen Pomaklar\u0131n gelene\u011fi devam ettirdi\u011fi ger\u00e7e\u011fi de tarihin bir uzant\u0131s\u0131 gibidir.<\/em><\/strong><\/p> Dil peyniri, II.Beyazid d\u00f6neminde haz\u0131rlanan Kanunname\u2019de kay\u0131tlarda ad\u0131 ge\u00e7en peynirdir.<\/p> Ha\u015flanm\u0131\u015f Peynirler<\/u><\/strong><\/p> Ha\u015flanm\u0131\u015f peynirler Do\u011fu Akdeniz, G\u00fcneydo\u011fu Anadolu, ba\u015fta Kars olmak \u00fczere Do\u011fu Anadolu, Marmara ve Karadeniz\u2019de \u00fcretilen, \u201cplastik teleme\u201d olarak da adland\u0131r\u0131lan peynirlerdir. Bu tan\u0131m\u0131n en \u00f6nemli sebebi \u0131s\u0131yla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131nda erimeye uygun yap\u0131lar\u0131 ve yerken a\u011f\u0131zda hissedilen elastik yap\u0131d\u0131r. Peynir tesad\u00fcfleri sever. Ha\u015flama peynirlerin tesad\u00fcfen bulunma hik\u00e2yesi de Selanik\u2019ten \u0130talya\u2019ya kadar uzan\u0131r. Selanikli Musevi k\u0131z\u0131 Ra\u015fel babas\u0131n\u0131n beyaz peynir telemesini kazara s\u0131cak suya d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcr\u00fcnce ka\u015fara, \u0130talyanlar\u0131n me\u015fhur loru Ricotta da yanl\u0131\u015fl\u0131kla kaynar kazanda kal\u0131nca Mozzarella\u2019ya d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcrken, evrensel lezzette pek \u00e7ok ha\u015flama peynire de yol a\u00e7arlar.<\/p> Beyaz peynirin karde\u015fi, t\u00fcm damaklar\u0131n ortak tad\u0131 ka\u015far. B\u00f6reklerin ve kahvalt\u0131lar\u0131n Osmanl\u0131\u2019dan bu yana de\u011fi\u015fmezi dil peyniri, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde daha \u00e7ok ki\u015finin tan\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00c7erkez, Abaza peynirleri, Bolu\u2019ya yolu d\u00fc\u015fenlerin \u00e7ok sevdi\u011fi Mengen peyniri, Erzurum\u2019un civili, Trabzon\u2019un koleti, Diyarbak\u0131r\u2019\u0131n \u00f6rg\u00fcs\u00fc, Mara\u015f parmak, Malatya kaynam\u0131\u015f ve Urfa peynirleri, Antakya\u2019n\u0131n s\u0131kma ve s\u00fcnmesi, K\u0131br\u0131s\u2019\u0131n hellimi ve pek \u00e7ok telli peynir T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin ha\u015flama peynirlerinin en g\u00fczel \u00f6rnekleridir.<\/p> S\u00fct\u00fcn mayalanmas\u0131n\u0131 takiben genellikle bask\u0131lanarak s\u00fczd\u00fcr\u00fclen telemenin kendi suyunda ha\u015flan\u0131p, hamur haline getirilerek \u015fekillendirilmesi ha\u015flama y\u00f6nteminin temelidir. Bu temel y\u00f6ntem uygulan\u0131rken telemenin bask\u0131lan\u0131p bask\u0131lanmamas\u0131, suyun i\u00e7inde kalma s\u00fcresi, ha\u015flama suyunun derecesi, tuzun peynire ha\u015flama \u00f6ncesi ya da sonras\u0131nda eklenmesi, kuru tuzlama ya da salamura yap\u0131lmas\u0131 peynirler aras\u0131ndaki tat ve yap\u0131 farkl\u0131l\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015fl\u0131ca sebepleridir. Tuz miktar\u0131 peynirin esnekli\u011fini, yumu\u015fak ve sertli\u011fini tan\u0131mlayaca\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in \u00f6nem ta\u015f\u0131r.<\/p> Kaynam\u0131\u015f peynirlerin en \u00f6nemli \u00f6zelli\u011fi erimeye, k\u0131zart\u0131lmaya uygun yap\u0131lar\u0131d\u0131r. Bu sebeple kahvalt\u0131n\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda k\u00fcnefe, muhlama, kuymak, h\u00f6\u015fmerim, g\u00fcve\u00e7te peynir gibi farkl\u0131 y\u00f6resel lezzetler i\u00e7inde kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131karlar.<\/p> Otlu Peynirler<\/u><\/strong><\/p> Do\u011fan\u0131n sundu\u011fu nimetlerin, insan elinde \u015fekilleni\u015finin en g\u00fczel \u00f6rne\u011fidir otlu peynirler. Do\u011fu ve G\u00fcneydo\u011fu Anadolu\u2019da, taze beyaz peynire aromal\u0131 otlar\u0131n kat\u0131lmas\u0131yla haz\u0131rlanan, k\u00f6yden k\u00f6ye bile lezzeti farkl\u0131la\u015fan, Anadolu topraklar\u0131n\u0131n en karakteristik peynirlerindendir. En az, \u00fcretildi\u011fi topraklarda h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015f medeniyetler kadar eski… Urartu, Roma, Bizans, \u0130skit, Med, Pers, Safevi, Karakoyunlu, Anadolu Sel\u00e7uklu, Osmanl\u0131 gibi pek \u00e7ok medeniyete ev sahipli\u011fi yapm\u0131\u015f Mezopotamya\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6nemli b\u00f6lgelerinin izlerini ta\u015f\u0131yan k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn uzant\u0131s\u0131 say\u0131l\u0131r. Evliya \u00c7elebi\u2019nin notlar\u0131nda da \u201ckiji adl\u0131 otun kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 peynir\u201d olarak ge\u00e7er.<\/p> \u0130lkbaharda otun bol oldu\u011fu yaylalarda beslenen asil \u0131rklar\u0131n y\u00fcksek kalitedeki koyun s\u00fctleriyle \u00fcretilen otlu peynirlerin mayas\u0131 da bu peynir i\u00e7in \u00f6zel olarak haz\u0131rlanan bir i\u00e7eri\u011fe sahiptir. \u015eirdene, \u015fap, karabiber, zencefil, tar\u00e7\u0131n, karanfil, toz \u015feker ve su eklenip kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131larak elde edilen ve k\u00fcplerde saklanan bu maya, peynire otlar kadar zengin bir aroma katar.<\/p> Peynirin i\u00e7ine kat\u0131labilecek yirmi be\u015f farkl\u0131 bitki bulunur. Bu kadar farkl\u0131 otun kullan\u0131laca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kim ke\u015ffetmi\u015f, nas\u0131l d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015f bilinmez ama ayn\u0131 zamanda \u015fifal\u0131 olan bu ye\u015fillikler peyniri C vitaminince zenginle\u015ftirerek b\u00f6lge insan\u0131na k\u0131\u015f aylar\u0131nda bitkisel g\u0131da takviyesi de yapar. Ba\u015fka peynirlerde eser miktarda bulunan C vitamini yo\u011funlu\u011fu, bu peynire t\u00fcm\u00fcyle otlar\u0131n ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir \u00f6zelliktir. Sirmo, sov, siyabo, yarpuz, yabani nane, kekik, mendi, heliz, ca\u015f\u0131r, mendo, \u00e7iri\u015f kullan\u0131lan ba\u015fl\u0131ca otlard\u0131r. T\u00fcrlerine g\u00f6re salamura edilerek ya da taze olarak peynire eklenirler. Tad\u0131n\u0131 tam bulup peynirle kayna\u015fmas\u0131 i\u00e7in genellikle s\u00fct mayalan\u0131rken ya da teleme bask\u0131ya girmeden kat\u0131l\u0131rlar. Sonradan ilave edildi\u011finde peynirle b\u00fct\u00fcnle\u015fmez, otu bol olsa da peynir istenen tat ve aroma \u00f6zelliklerini ta\u015f\u0131yamaz.<\/p> En \u00e7ok bilinen \u201cVan otlu peynir\u201didir. Hakk\u00e2ri, Siirt, Kars, A\u011fr\u0131, Diyarbak\u0131r, Mu\u015f ve Bitlis\u2019te de yo\u011fun olarak \u00fcretilen bir peynir t\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fcr. Her b\u00f6lgede kullan\u0131lan ot \u00e7e\u015fidi ve kullan\u0131m \u015fekli de\u011fi\u015fti\u011fi i\u00e7in, b\u0131rak\u0131n ayn\u0131 k\u00f6y\u00fc, evden eve bile lezzeti de\u011fi\u015fir. Kullan\u0131lan otlar\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra \u00e7o\u011fu yerde, bir \u00e7e\u015fit yo\u011furt olarak tan\u0131mlayabilece\u011fimiz, b\u00f6lgede cac\u0131k olarak an\u0131lan kar\u0131\u015f\u0131mla kat kat bas\u0131lmas\u0131 da peynirin tad\u0131n\u0131 farkl\u0131la\u015ft\u0131r\u0131r.<\/p> Peynirin uzun s\u00fcre korunabilmesi i\u00e7in tuzlu suda salamura edilerek ya da kuru tuzlama yap\u0131larak saklanmas\u0131 gerekir. Aylar ge\u00e7tik\u00e7e tuz miktar\u0131 artar; yap\u0131s\u0131 sertle\u015fir, peynir, vurgulu \u00f6zel bir rayihaya kavu\u015fur. Beyaz-kremsi, kabuksuz, yar\u0131 sert, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck g\u00f6zenekli yap\u0131s\u0131; keskin, otsu aromas\u0131yla damakta iz b\u0131rakan tatlar\u0131 sevenler i\u00e7in g\u00fczel bir peynir olarak yerini korur.<\/p> Tulum, Testi, K\u00fcp Peynirleri<\/u><\/strong><\/p> Trakya d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda her b\u00f6lgemizde \u00fcretilen tulum peyniri, Anadolu topraklar\u0131n\u0131 ve gelene\u011fini en iyi tan\u0131mlayan peynirlerdendir. Taze peynirin tuzlan\u0131p deri ya da toprak kaplara bas\u0131larak dayan\u0131kl\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n art\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131, kullan\u0131lan en eski peynir saklama y\u00f6ntemidir. Geleneksel \u00fcretiminde koyun ya da ke\u00e7i derisinden tulumlara bas\u0131lmas\u0131 yayg\u0131n isminin \u201ctulum\u201d olmas\u0131na sebep olmu\u015ftur. Deri ve toprak k\u00fcplerin yerini art\u0131k a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131kla plastik kaplar alsa da lezzeti \u00fclke s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131n\u0131 a\u015facak g\u00fczellikteki bu peynir grubu en \u00e7ok tercih edilen \u00e7e\u015fitlerin ba\u015f\u0131nda gelir.<\/p> Tulumlarda temel i\u015flem, peynirin kondu\u011fu malzemeye, hava bo\u015flu\u011fu olmaks\u0131z\u0131n s\u0131k\u0131ca bast\u0131r\u0131larak, \u00e7ok iyi kapat\u0131l\u0131p ters \u015fekilde serin ve havadar ma\u011fara, kullan\u0131lmayan su kuyusu, yayla, kiler, Anadolu\u2019da bast\u0131rak olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan ve topra\u011f\u0131n alt\u0131nda kaz\u0131larak olu\u015fturulan \u00e7ukurlar gibi d\u0131\u015f ortam s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131ndan etkilenmeyen, hatta \u0131\u015f\u0131k almayan yerlerde olgunla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131 esas\u0131na dayan\u0131r. Bu sebeple neye bas\u0131l\u0131rsa bas\u0131ls\u0131n olgunla\u015fma i\u00e7in esas, tulumun sakland\u0131\u011f\u0131 ortam\u0131n nemi ve s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p> Do\u011fu Anadolu B\u00f6lgesi\u2019nde daha \u00e7ok deri, \u0130\u00e7 Anadolu\u2019da k\u00fcp ya da \u00e7\u00f6mlek, Akdeniz\u2019de beze bas\u0131lan, olgunla\u015ft\u0131k\u00e7a g\u00fczelle\u015fen, her biri kendi b\u00f6lge ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc anlatan tulumlar\u0131 biz \u00fc\u00e7 farkl\u0131 grup alt\u0131nda tan\u0131ml\u0131yoruz: Kuru, salamural\u0131 ve k\u00fcfl\u00fc tulumlar.<\/p> KURU TULUMLAR:<\/p> \u00d6zellikle Erzincan, Erzurum, Tunceli, Bing\u00f6l, Elaz\u0131\u011f ile Orta Anadolu\u2019yu Akdeniz\u2019e ba\u011flayan Toros Yaylalar\u0131\u2019nda yayg\u0131n olarak g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcr. Erzincan tulumu, \u00c7orum karg\u0131, Adana tulum, Mersin bezde, Antakya \u00e7\u00f6rekotlu \u00e7\u00f6mlek bu gruba sadece birka\u00e7 \u00f6rnektir. En bilineni \u015eavak a\u015fireti g\u00f6\u00e7erlerinin da\u011fl\u0131k b\u00f6lgelerde ya\u011fl\u0131 koyun s\u00fct\u00fcnden \u00fcrettikleri Erzincan \u015eavak tulumudur. Orta Asya\u2019dan g\u00f6\u00e7 eden T\u00fcrk boylar\u0131n\u0131n, hayvanlar\u0131n s\u00fctlerini korumak i\u00e7in derilere koyup havadar yerlerde bekletmeleri gelene\u011fi \u015eavak g\u00f6\u00e7erlerince g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde de devam ettirilir ve T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin en sevilen tulumunu kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131r.<\/p> Kuru tulumlar taze peynirlerin par\u00e7alan\u0131p tuzla kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131larak, kimi zaman yo\u011furt, kaymak, tereya\u011f\u0131 ilave edilerek yo\u011frulup tulumlara bas\u0131lmas\u0131yla haz\u0131rlan\u0131r. Baz\u0131 t\u00fcrlerine \u00e7\u00f6rekotu, kekik ve zahter gibi aromas\u0131 y\u00fcksek kuru baharatlar eklenerek bas\u0131l\u0131r. Olgunla\u015fma s\u00fcreci en uzun peynirlerimizden olan tulumlar, s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck, nem oran\u0131 y\u00fcksek ma\u011fara, mahzen gibi depolarda 3 ay ile 1 y\u0131l aras\u0131nda bekletildi\u011finde istenen lezzete ula\u015f\u0131r.<\/p> Farkl\u0131 aroma ve lezzetinin temelinde peynirin bas\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 deri yer al\u0131r. Genel olarak \u0131s\u0131l i\u015flem g\u00f6rmemi\u015f ya\u011fl\u0131 s\u00fctlerden \u00fcretildikleri i\u00e7in keskin ve asidik bir tat; tereya\u011f\u0131ms\u0131 bir aroma; g\u00f6zeneksiz, da\u011f\u0131lmayan yap\u0131; kremsi beyazl\u0131k en belirgin \u00f6zellikleridir.<\/p> SALAMURALI TULUMLAR:<\/p> Salamural\u0131 tulumlar neredeyse Ege B\u00f6lgesi\u2019nin tamam\u0131nda \u00fcretilir. Afyon salamural\u0131 deri tulum, Bergama tulumu ve \u0130zmir tulumu bu gruba sadece birka\u00e7 \u00f6rnektir. \u00dcretim y\u00f6ntemi bak\u0131m\u0131ndan kuru tulumlardan olduk\u00e7a farkl\u0131d\u0131rlar. Salamural\u0131 olarak tenekeye bas\u0131l\u0131rlar.<\/p> Koyun, ke\u00e7i, inek, az da olsa manda s\u00fct\u00fc kar\u0131\u015f\u0131mlar\u0131yla past\u00f6rize edilmeden i\u015flenir, beyaz peynire benzer bir teleme \u00fcretimi ve \u00f6n olgunla\u015ft\u0131rman\u0131n ard\u0131ndan kaya tuzuyla haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f salamural\u0131 tenekelere konulur en az 3 ay olgunla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131l\u0131rlar.<\/p> K\u00dcFL\u00dc TULUMLAR:<\/p> \u0130\u00e7 Anadolu\u2019da koyun s\u00fct\u00fcnden, Do\u011fu Anadolu ve Karadeniz\u2019de inek s\u00fctlerinden \u00fcretilen peynirlerin k\u00fcflendirilerek kullan\u0131lmas\u0131 olduk\u00e7a yayg\u0131nd\u0131r. K\u00fcfl\u00fc, g\u00f6\u011fermi\u015f, ye\u015fil peynir gibi adlarla an\u0131l\u0131rlar. Konya ve Karaman \u00e7evresindeki obruklarda olgunla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lan tulumlar bu grubun en g\u00fczel \u00f6rnekleridir. Deriden \u00e7\u0131kan peynirde gri-ye\u015fil ince damarl\u0131 k\u00fcf tabakalar\u0131 bulunur. Geleneksel y\u00f6ntemlerle \u00fcretilip t\u00fcketilen k\u00fcfl\u00fc peynirler ideal \u0131s\u0131 ve neme sahip ortamlarda olgunla\u015fman\u0131n ard\u0131ndan t\u00fcketim \u00f6ncesinde, tulumdan \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131l\u0131r, daha y\u00fcksek s\u0131cakl\u0131kta bir s\u00fcre bekletilerek penicillium (penisilin) maddelerinin do\u011fal olarak a\u00e7\u0131\u011fa \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131yla sa\u011flan\u0131r. Bu i\u015flem peynire tulumdan daha keskin bir tat, mantar\u0131ms\u0131 kokular i\u00e7eren kendine \u00f6zg\u00fc ho\u015f bir aroma kazand\u0131r\u0131r. Son y\u0131llarda de\u011fi\u015fen \u00fcretim y\u00f6ntemleriyle end\u00fcstriyel \u00fcretimlerde Roquefort k\u00fcf maddesi t\u00fcketim \u00f6ncesinde peynire d\u0131\u015fardan da eklenmektedir.<\/p> Sepet Peynirleri<\/strong><\/p> \u0130sim ve \u00f6zelliklerini Anadolu\u2019nun Ege k\u0131y\u0131lar\u0131nda, b\u00f6lgenin zeytin a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131ndan haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f \u00e7ift ba\u015fl\u0131 y\u0131lan \u00f6rg\u00fcs\u00fc sepetlerden al\u0131rlar. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde bu has\u0131r sepetlerin yerini plastik s\u00fczge\u00e7ler alsa da Kaz Da\u011flar\u0131\u2019n\u0131n t\u00fcm g\u00fczelli\u011fini lezzetlerine yans\u0131t\u0131rlar. Bal\u0131kesir-\u0130zmir hatt\u0131ndaki Ayval\u0131kCunda, Fo\u00e7a, Dikili, Edremit, Burhaniye, \u00c7e\u015fme ve Karaburun\u2019da \u00fcretilenlerine \u00f6zellikle \u015fehirlerde b\u00fcy\u00fck ra\u011fbet vard\u0131r.<\/p> Ge\u00e7mi\u015fte tamam\u0131 ke\u00e7i s\u00fct\u00fcnden yap\u0131lan sepet peynirleri \u015fimdilerde ke\u00e7i, koyun ve inek s\u00fctlerinin kar\u0131\u015f\u0131mlar\u0131 ya da mevsime g\u00f6re tek s\u00fct cinsiyle i\u015flenir. Hangi s\u00fct kullan\u0131l\u0131rsa kullan\u0131ls\u0131n \u00f6nemli olan s\u00fct\u00fcn ya\u011fl\u0131 olmas\u0131d\u0131r. Ya\u011fl\u0131 s\u00fct\u00fcn sa\u011f\u0131m s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda \u00e7i\u011fden mayalanmas\u0131 ve y\u00f6re halk\u0131n\u0131n \u201cguva\u201d dedi\u011fi sepetlerde s\u00fczd\u00fcr\u00fclmesinin ard\u0131ndan, kuru tuzlama uygulanarak 3 ayl\u0131k olgunla\u015fma s\u00fcreciyle peynir yenebilir hale gelir. Salamura suyuna al\u0131n\u0131rsa 1-1,5 y\u0131l saklanabilir.<\/p> 4-5 kiloluk yuvarlak kelle \u015feklindeki sepet peynirleri bekledik\u00e7e g\u00fczelle\u015fir. Sar\u0131mt\u0131rak renkte, g\u00f6zenekli, yar\u0131 sert bu peynirler salamural\u0131 tulumlarla birlikte Ege\u2019nin g\u00f6zde peynirleridir.<\/p> Sert G\u00f6zenekli Peynirler<\/strong><\/p> G\u00f6zenekli peynirlerin temeli, p\u0131ht\u0131 hen\u00fcz teleme suyunun i\u00e7indeyken bask\u0131lanarak, tekrar \u0131s\u0131t\u0131l\u0131p kal\u0131planmas\u0131 ve preslenmesi esas\u0131na dayan\u0131r.<\/p> \u00dclkemizde az say\u0131da \u00e7e\u015fide sahip sert g\u00f6zenekli peynirlerin en \u00f6nemli temsilcisi Kars gravyeridir. Mihal\u0131\u00e7 da olgunla\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131 takiben, y\u00fcksek kaliteli sert g\u00f6zenekli peynir grubuna girer.<\/p> Bu peynirlerin en karakteristik \u00f6zelli\u011fi olan g\u00f6zenekler, olgunla\u015fma s\u0131ras\u0131nda a\u00e7\u0131\u011fa \u00e7\u0131kan karbondioksitin hava bo\u015fluklar\u0131 olu\u015fturmas\u0131yla meydana gelir. G\u00f6zeneklerin kabu\u011fun yakla\u015f\u0131k 2 cm alt\u0131ndan ba\u015flamas\u0131, e\u015fit b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fckte olmas\u0131 ve homojen da\u011f\u0131lmas\u0131 s\u00fct\u00fcn do\u011fru i\u015flendi\u011fini g\u00f6sterir. Kabuk k\u0131s\u0131mlar\u0131nda ya da kabu\u011fa yak\u0131n b\u00f6lgelerdeki bo\u015fluklar \u00fcretim ve olgunla\u015fma s\u00fcre\u00e7lerindeki hatalar\u0131n sonucudur.<\/p> Yap\u0131lan peynire g\u00f6re s\u00fct cinsi ve mayalama s\u0131cakl\u0131klar\u0131 farkl\u0131l\u0131k g\u00f6sterse de, ortak \u00f6zellik s\u00fct\u00fcn tam ya\u011fl\u0131 ve zengin i\u00e7erikli bir yap\u0131ya sahip olmas\u0131d\u0131r. Kuru madde oran\u0131 ve besleyici de\u011ferleri olduk\u00e7a y\u00fcksektir. Uzun olgunla\u015fma d\u00f6nemlerinin ard\u0131ndan, kabuklar\u0131n\u0131n alt\u0131nda kat\u0131 fakat esnek, olgunla\u015ft\u0131k\u00e7a tad\u0131 ve aromas\u0131 belirginle\u015fen \u00f6zellikler kazan\u0131rlar.<\/p> \u0130\u015flenmi\u015f Peynirler<\/strong><\/p> ER\u0130TME PEYN\u0130R:<\/p> Eritme peynirler, peynir \u00fcretiminde yirminci y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ba\u015flar\u0131ndan bu yana s\u00fcregelen sanayile\u015fmenin \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcd\u00fcr. \u00dcretim y\u00f6nteminde, sert ve yar\u0131 sert, kimi zaman da yumu\u015fak tip peynirler eritme tuzlar\u0131yla birlikte \u0131s\u0131t\u0131larak kayna\u015ft\u0131r\u0131l\u0131r, tuz ve aroma ilave edilir.<\/p> \u00dcretimde s\u00fcttozu, peynir alt\u0131 suyu, tereya\u011f\u0131 ve krema gibi farkl\u0131 katk\u0131lar\u0131n kullan\u0131lmas\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra, kullan\u0131lan peynirin gen\u00e7 ya da orta ya\u015fl\u0131 olmas\u0131, eritme tuzlar\u0131n\u0131n tip ve miktar\u0131, eritme s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve s\u00fcresi, eritilmi\u015f peynirin so\u011futulma h\u0131z\u0131 gibi farkl\u0131 etkenler \u00e7e\u015fitlili\u011fi olu\u015fturmaktad\u0131r. Son y\u0131llarda g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc talep, \u00f6zel olarak y\u00fcksek teknolojiyle \u00f6zenle se\u00e7ilmi\u015f nitelikli peynir kar\u0131\u015f\u0131mlar\u0131 \u00fcretilmesine de sebep olmu\u015ftur. Uzun raf s\u00fcresi, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck miktarlarda sat\u0131n alabilme kolayl\u0131\u011f\u0131, \u00e7e\u015fitli yiyecek t\u00fcrlerinde katk\u0131 maddesi olarak kullan\u0131lmas\u0131, talebin her ge\u00e7en g\u00fcn artmas\u0131n\u0131n en \u00f6nemli sebepleridir.<\/p> LABNE:<\/p> Labne, Orta Asya\u2019dan Tibet g\u00f6\u00e7erleri arac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131yla Arap Yar\u0131madas\u0131\u2019na yay\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir peynirdir. \u0130smini Arap \u00fclkelerindeki yayg\u0131n kullan\u0131m\u0131yla \u201clabneh\u201dden al\u0131r.<\/p> Arap Yar\u0131madas\u0131\u2019nda, Filistin, L\u00fcbnan, Gazze, \u00dcrd\u00fcn, Suriye gibi pek \u00e7ok yerin yan\u0131 s\u0131ra Yunanistan, K\u0131br\u0131s ve Ermenistan\u2019da geleneksel \u00fcretim yayg\u0131n bi\u00e7imde yap\u0131lmaktad\u0131r.<\/p> Kahvalt\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra pek \u00e7ok \u00fclke mutfa\u011f\u0131nda farkl\u0131 kullan\u0131mlar\u0131 da mevcuttur. \u0130\u00e7ine baharat ve sebze kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lan t\u00fcrleri en pop\u00fcler mezelerdendir.<\/p> Bedeviler, labne peynirini daha uzun s\u00fcre korumak amac\u0131yla t\u0131pk\u0131 bizdeki yo\u011furt kurusu \u201ckurut\u201d gibi kurutulmu\u015f baharatl\u0131 labne t\u00fcketirken, Filistin, Gazze ve \u0130srail\u2019de s\u00fcr\u00fclebilir az tuzlu, genellikle nane, zeytin ve zeytinya\u011f\u0131 ile kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131larak haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f \u015fekilde yumu\u015fak t\u00fcketilir. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck top haline getirilip zeytinya\u011f\u0131nda bekletilerek olgunla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131labilir. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde Antakya\u2019da bulunan, daha \u00e7ok Halep peyniri olarak da bilinen zeytinya\u011f\u0131nda \u201cs\u00fcrk\u201d\u00fcn kayna\u011f\u0131 da buna dayanmaktad\u0131r.<\/p> Geleneksel \u00fcretim, inek s\u00fct\u00fcnden elde edilen yo\u011furt ve lor kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131yla yap\u0131l\u0131r. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de inek s\u00fct\u00fc, s\u00fct kremas\u0131, laktik asit, bakteri k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc ve tuz kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcr.<\/p> S\u00dcZME PEYN\u0130R:<\/p> S\u00fczme peynirler, ileri teknoloji ultra filtrasyon (s\u00fczme) y\u00f6ntemiyle \u00fcretilmektedir. Bu y\u00f6ntem s\u00fct end\u00fcstrisinde proteini standardize etmek ya da zenginle\u015ftirmek amac\u0131yla kullan\u0131lmakta olup, peynirin ad\u0131n\u0131n da kayna\u011f\u0131d\u0131r. S\u00fct mayalanmadan \u00f6nce yo\u011funla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131l\u0131r. S\u00fczme i\u015flemi mayalamadan \u00f6nce yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in peynirin i\u00e7indeki protein de\u011feri y\u00fcksek oranda korunmaktad\u0131r.<\/p> S\u00fczme peynir, yo\u011furt gibi, nihai ambalaj\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde mayalan\u0131r. \u00dczerine \u00e7ok ince \u00f6zel k\u00e2\u011f\u0131t ve tuz konularak, tuzun peynire yava\u015f yava\u015f ge\u00e7mesi sa\u011flan\u0131r. Peynir yapma y\u00f6ntemleri i\u00e7inde yer alan bask\u0131lama, s\u00fczd\u00fcr\u00fclme, tuzlama, olgunla\u015ft\u0131rma gibi teknikler kullan\u0131lmaz. Bu sebeple geleneksel peynirlere g\u00f6re \u00e7ok hafif bir koku, keskin olmayan lezzeti vard\u0131r. Evlerde kullan\u0131m\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra fast-food \u00fcr\u00fcnlerin ba\u015fl\u0131ca hammaddelerinden olmas\u0131 nedeniyle bu peynir grubunun t\u00fcketimi her ge\u00e7en g\u00fcn h\u0131zla art\u0131rmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"